We made our way from the northern Atacama desert just above the Tropic of Capricorn down to tiny and remote Puerto Toro on Isla Navarino at 55 degrees south. A relaxing seven-day cruise out of Punta Arenas on the MV Terra Australis through the Strait of Magellan and the Beagle Channel gave us a much needed break from our ramblings. Lectures and video presentations, in both Spanish and English, provided a wide range of information on this remote part of the Southern Hemisphere.

Prior to each excursion off the ship in Zodiacs, passengers were reminded to protect the fragile flora and not leave any garbage, particularly reminding smokers about cigarette and cigar butts.

A highlight of the cruise was an afternoon spent on Magalena Island to view and photograph the Magalena penguin colony where over one thousand of these charming inhabitants nest. On his first cruise to this area, the ship's Chilean doctor remarked how proud he was that his country had built walkways for visitors to prevent negative impact on these precious and flightless birds.

On our last evening aboard, a poignant parting speech was given by Captain Henry Pugh, again in Spanish and English. With his approval, yet embarrassment for his limited English, he agreed to share his farewell with my colleagues in Heritage Interpretation International. His attitude and that of the ship's owners and crew were clear that they, at least, are setting a steady course to encourage conservation in a most beautiful yet ecologically sensitive part of the Southern Hemisphere.

"As with all our best moments, our southern expedition has to end. All the wonderful experiences we have had, the new friendships and the tenderness we have received will not be easy to forget and they will remain a part of us for the rest of our lives. But work still goes on and your families are waiting for you with full open arms. For a seaman, sailing again and again, farewell is not an easy word. Each time it is more and more difficult. That is why I don't want to give you a farewell speech but instead would like to thank you for choosing the cruise and tell you a piece the Magellan story, of the people and the Terra Australis.

"As the legend says, God created the world reserving the seventh day to gaze on all the marvels and visit the different places He had made. He stared down on the Magellan and the southward land of the Strait. He found wonderful flora and fauna, glaciers, mountains, deep channels and fjords. Nature was beautiful.

"All that beauty will not be so great without people of good will, possessing a spirit of sacrifice; people who are able to withstand harsh conditions and more than that, who will permit Terra Australis, a ship with the qualities you know, to cruise in these waters. People who will permit men of good will to embark on board to face the Southern latitudes, the roaring winds, those deep colds, the lonely winter nights and the short ones of summer, thus allowing you to be reminded of the spirit of the former discoverers.

"As God created Terra Australis, he felt it was necessary to give her an excellent crew with a gentleman's spirit, education, efficiency and a touch of feminism. And, finally to manage this select team, He chose the best of captains - a lover of the southern seas."