We headed off in our 34’ Californian trawler, “Fish-n-Chips”
and I tried to convince myself that the waiting would be easier if I was back
out on the water. I tried not to pout and instead consoled myself thinking the
time spent waiting would be worth it when our new boat arrived – even if
I had to endure the more crowded anchorages while longing for the abundant wildlife,
sea life and picturesque settings the northern waters afford.
We decided to head for Prevost Island, accessible only by boat with no marina
– a very quiet and secluded sort of island. After four amazing days there
I had a much needed appreciation for the waters so close to home.
When we arrived
and anchored in Glenthorne Passage, we were the only boat there. After settling
in we prepared to scuba dive off Owl Island, a small island just north of Secret
Island where all the summer cottages are located. We loaded up our twelve foot
inflatable, “Catch-Up” and headed for the dive spot. I’m used
to the current swept waters up north that have life on top of life, so much so
that you have to look really carefully to not miss anything. I didn’t expect
to see much under the water off this island – but I was wrong. There was
interesting life - basket stars, many purple sea urchins, rock scallops, many
varieties of crabs, one large ling cod, and a very colorful Irish Lord. The visibility
wasn’t as good as up north due to the influence of the Fraser River but
a good dive none the less.
When we returned to
our boat we had company. Another vessel from Anacortes was anchored on route northward.
Back on board our vessel, our dog, a one hundred and twenty-five pound Italian
Mastiff, Kona, started barking and growling with all the hair up on her back.
What she wanted us to notice was the pending danger on the eastern foreshore from
a small flock of Angora goats that were standing on their back legs eating the
leaves off the trees. Kona thereafter kept a sharp lookout for sheep and marmots
that frequented the shoreline near our anchorage.
The next day we
baited our crab trap and placed it towards the head of Glenthorpe. It was a bit
tricky because there were commercial traps there as well.
While we waited for our trap to fill we decided to go kayaking. The plan was to
circumnavigate the island.
It was a perfect day for it. Very little wind, sunny but not too hot. We visited
Annette Inlet, one bay eastward from where we were anchored, and saw that there
was a substantial house there and two float homes and several boats anchored in
the head of the bay. We passed by Selby Point and were surprised to find current
there. We would check it out later for a potential dive spot. We then passed James
Bay and noticed marine park signage and several tenters camped at the head. We
continued on around the point and down the east side of Prevost. We saw several
eagles on the way and took pictures of one perched in the high trees as we rounded
Peile Point. We paddled until we were adjacent to Hawkins Island and pulled up
on shore for a pleasant picnic lunch on a sandy beach. After lunch we continued
paddling south in Trincomali Channel and I spotted an Orca out of the corner of
my eye heading toward us coming up Navy Channel across from Mayne Island.
For safety reasons
Rick and I always paddle with walky-talkies and I radioed him that whales were
coming our way and he immediately started paddling hard toward the center of the
channel to get a good picture. I, on the other hand, paddled closer to shore!
He positioned himself in the middle of the waterway and several whales passed
by. He had his eye in the view finder of the camera and I continued to radio him
the whales’ location as they approached. One large male came very close
and he got a great shot of him. He was so close when the bull whale went past
him that the waves from the animal substantially rocked his kayak and he could
see the whale’s eye looking at him as he passed by! As I watched from the
shore I was getting steadily more nervous as the pod surrounded Rick as they swam
by, not to mention a ferry was approaching to go into Active Pass. Several whale
watching boats that had been following at the prescribed distance were now close
by as well. As the ferry passed, one whale in the pod lay on its side and flapped
its pectoral fin and its tail as if saluting the passengers on the ferry.
After the pod passed, and my heart returned to its normal rate, we continued
paddling around the southern end of the island. We paddled around Portlock Point,
past Richardson Bay and on to the entrance to Diver Bay.
Always on the look
out for a good oyster bed, I paddled close into the Red Islets at the mouth of
this bay. I then heard what sounded like the meowing of a kitten. As I scoured
the shore line searching for the source of the cry, I spotted, so well camouflaged
with the gray rocks, a seal pup lying alone. Had he not “meowed” I
would never have spotted him. I again called Rick on the walkie-talkie and told
him to come over and take a picture. I stayed well back so not to frighten the
pup and as Rick approached; even with explicit instructions as to his whereabouts,
he had trouble spotting the pup. Mother seal and company must have been out for
lunch and would be back soon. After getting several pictures of him we continued
on our way.
As we entered
in the narrow gap at the southern end of Secret Island we spotted a red-hulled
Nordic Tug and paddled over to admire it. The “Sonshine” was from
Edmonds, Washington. The Captain and his wife were on their way up north for six
weeks. They told us they anchored in this location each year. They like to anchor
adjacent to the “gap” overlooking Captain Passage across to Saltspring
to admire the gorgeous sunsets. I had to tell them about our whale encounter and
they had to admit they had never been that close to any whales, here or up north.
We returned to our boat, and proceeded to collect our crab trap. We were pleased
with the reward when we pulled it up. Several undersized rock crabs were thrown
back but two Dungeness were retrieved for a perfect appetizer after an adventure
filled afternoon.
The next day we decided to take Kona for a lengthy hike in the forest at James
Bay and further explore the recently acquired National Park Reserve there. On
our way over in our tender we decided to drop a prawn trap just off of Selby Cove.
As we approached
the head of James Bay our sounder informed us it was shallow at the head so we
went in as close as we could with “Catch-Up”, lifted the motor up,
and waded the rest of the way onto O’Reilly Beach. We hiked through the
forest along the east side of James Bay and climbed up to admire the breathtaking
view from Peile Point. The climb is strenuous at times and often the trails lead
one way and then another. The trail is more of a deer path and there are many
ways to choose from. The signage in the park is not as detailed as we are used
to seeing in the provincial marine parks. We climbed back down and walked over
to the western side of the bay and explored the orchards and meadows there. There
were several campers and kayakers enjoying the site and several boats anchored
in the bay.
We then got back into the “Catch-Up” and on our return checked
out Selby Point for a potential dive spot for the next day. After noticing the
current there earlier while kayaking we now discovered, with the help of our sounder,
that there was a small reef there. Tomorrow we would dive from this point to further
explore the undersea world around Prevost Island.
We pulled up our prawn trap and found, after only three hours down, there was
a nice collection of shrimp to add to our dinner menu.
We dove the next day off Selby Point and enjoyed thirty foot visibility. The
terrain was different here than off Owl Island. It was rocky with many crevices
to explore. We saw a red rock crab holding a female tight to his underside waiting,
Rick explained, to mate with her when the time was right – the molt. There
were also many varieties of colorful sea stars.
After our dive we decided to take advantage of a calm sea and headed over to
Saltspring in our inflatable to grocery shop. The market place in Ganges, as always,
was bustling with people taking up the various offerings there. We returned home
with fresh supplies of fruit, veggies and a bottle of good red wine.
The next day we went diving in Active Pass at Collinson Point – a short
ride over in the “Catch-up”. Once again we found large ling cod and
some interesting sea life.
When we got back
to our anchorage we had a voice message on our cell phone informing us that our
new boat “Sea Foam” would be arriving in Steveston next day to clear
customs. Tomorrow morning we would weigh anchor and cross the Strait headed for
Sand Heads.