| The
Enchanting Channel Isles Story by Caroline Jackson Photos by Hamish M. Jackson |
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Jersey is the biggest island followed by Guernsey, Alderney, Sark and Herm. Jersey's capital, the busy port of St. Helier, is guarded by majestic 16thC. Elizabeth Castle. Situated on a rocky islet, it is fun to walk to the castle one way and make the return trip aboard the amphibious army "DUKW" vehicle. It is wise to keep an eye on the tides, however, as they can rise as much as 40 feet. Back in the centre of St. Helier, the state-of-the-art Jersey Museum is located in a lovely Georgian House. Nearby, philatelists are welcome at the main Post Office where one can admire the lovely stamps minted by the Bailiwick (state) of Jersey. In a moment of weakness I purchased two booklets of exquisitely painted wildlife stamps We chose to meander along a few of the island's 350-mile network of roads in a small rented car. By chance we found ourselves behind a tour bus which we tailed for the next hour. The first highlight on our mystery tour took us to St. Matthews Church. Inside were exquisite glass angels created by the famous Rene Lalique of Paris as a memorial to the founder of Boots the Chemist. Our next jaunt took us to the Lavender Farm where every June, fields are transformed into fragrant carpets of mauve. The gift shop sells lavender water, honey and scented furniture polish.
After our underground experience, we enjoyed a refreshing hike along the 16-mile-long cliff top paths. My favourite location was breezy palm-fringed St.Brelade's Bay which is adjacent to a lovely parish church. Delicate flowers abound and freesias, daffodils, anemones, roses and carnations are a major export. Every August, the island hosts the Battle of Flowers carnival. To experience an even slower pace of life, we headed over to the quieter island of Guernsey. Its maze of leafy lanes - known as roads - wind past lush green fields in which tethered cows the colour of golden syrup, munch contentedly with nary a flick of an eyelid. En route, we encountered many quaint pink-granite farms with exotic French names. By grass verges, honesty boxes displayed fresh flowers, fruit and vegetables for sale. On the sides of many chimneys a sizeable stone protrusion belied the superstition that providing a seat for visiting witches to warm themselves protected residents from harm.
Golfers will enjoy a round at the 18-hole Royal Guernsey Golf Club which overlooks the ocean. However, be prepared to encounter obstacles such as prehistoric graves, 18th-century fortifications, pillboxes and bunkers from World War II. Adjacent to the 5th hole is the ancient monument called Les Fouaillages which is thought to date further back than the pyramids of Egypt.
A favourite jaunt for shell seekers is the 20-minute boat trip over to the tiny island of Herm. The Gulf Stream deposits scores of intricate and rare shells from the Caribbean along its shores. The island has its own tavern and hotel, an ideal place to tarry for a fresh seafood dinner at sunset. Transportation: British Airways has regular flights from London Gatwick to Jersey & Guernsey (Tel.l-800-AIRWAYS). For more information: Jersey: www.jersey.com Guernsey: www.guernseytouristboard.com British Tourist Authority www.visitbritain.com/ca Tel: 1-888-VISIT UK About
the photos: For more stories by Caroline and Hamish Jackson visit Travel-wise Writers Page |
Victor
Hugo, author of Les Miserables referred to the Channel Islands as "pieces
of France fallen into the sea and picked up by England". The warmest
and sunniest of the British Isles, the islands are located in the Bay
of St. Malo making them nearer to France than England. Although part
of the British Isles, they are ruled separately by a feudal system which
dates back to Norman times.
It
is impossible to visit the Channel Islands without becoming aware of
the role the islands played during the WWII - a time when they were
the only part of the British Isles to come under German occupation.
A key place to visit for half a day is the German Underground Hospital.
Inside, we wandered along the brightly lit white-washed tunnels, past
the medical quarters and learned about the resourcefulness of the islanders
who, during the five-year occupation, made tea from bramble leaves and
coffee from acorns. Excavated by thousands of slave labourers, the museum
tells the story of island life when the German language was made compulsory
in schools, driving was changed to the right side of the road and 65,000
mines were strewn along the beaches. 
If
wandering the country lanes is too soporific, head for the cliff top
paths which in spring, are awash with pink campion, bluebells and gorse.
Many paths lead down to Guernsey's 27 beaches, each one different from
it's neighbour. Two-mile-long Vazon Bay is renowned for its wind surfing,
Port Soif for its soft white sand dunes while Saints Bay, a beautiful
cove, is frequented by snorkellers. One location Moulin Huet Bay, inspired
impressionist painter Renoir to paint fifteen canvasses. Ask the locals
which beach is best for the day and their choice will be dependent on
wind direction.
Guernsey's
capital, St. Peter Port, rises in tiers above the picturesque harbour
where you can visit the 13th century Castle Cornet. It has a marvellous
Maritime Museum and a fascinating section about the island's smuggling
history. The town also has a charming shopping centre with narrow cobbled
streets, quaint bistros and pubs.