As our plane curved west across the Pacific Ocean towards the Hawaiian Islands, I buried my nose in my Lonely Planet guidebook which described an area just north of our destination at Kailua-Kona airport.

The writer described Kua Bay as "a beautiful secluded beach with turquoise waters and gleaming white sands. It's picture-postcard material. It has a gentle slope and inviting waters for swimmers…" I nudged my husband, Hamish, and suggested we visit this idyllic spot the next day as it would only be a short drive from our hotel in Kona.

The next morning after satiating our appetites on our hotel's smorgasbord of tropical fruits, we loaded the trunk of our rental car with beach paraphernalia and drove north along Queen Kaahumanu Highway that slices through swathes of black lava.

We parked just off the highway and followed the lava-bed trail for the 20-minute hike towards the turquoise sea fringe. To our chagrin, we discovered the last storm had sucked all 10-million grains of sand elsewhere. Feeling somewhat bereft, we took one look at the gigantic waves which pounded against razor-sharp lava rocks and decided to abandon our fins and snorkels in favor of our novels. Minutes later, a jeep driven by a Park Ranger hove into view. He informed us our car had been vandalized and that our personal effects had gone the same way as the disappearing beach. This was not an auspicious start to our vacation.

Having experienced an emotional low, we decided to get a better perspective on things by literally sticking our heads in the clouds. In the afternoon, we took a guided tour to the top of Mauna Kea which stands at 13,796'. The 4WD vehicle cut across the Big Island through a Military Reserve which sports signs such as "Danger - Overhead artillery firing."

It is not a good picnic spot as some tourists apparently discovered after finding themselves in the line of target practice. Onwards and upwards we climbed until we reached the Visitor Information Center at 9,200 feet - an ideal place to acclimatize ourselves before proceeding up the steep cinder path to the summit. Our vehicle continued at a snail's pace to minimize creating clouds of red dust which can obstruct the visual field of the 13 observatories which are lined up like toadstools along the ridge.

Experiencing a slight headache from the high altitude, we donned warm clothes and walked into the keening wind which whipped at our parkas. Before us we watched a spectacular sunset while behind us the automated telescopes opened like clams to study the heavenlies. Somehow from this lofty perspective, our earlier brush with vandalism seemed quite insignificant.

Now that we were hooked on volcanoes, we decided to spend the following day at the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park which is located on the flanks of Mauna Loa. The highway leads to the Kilauea Caldera at 4,000' which has excellent visitor centers and maps depicting well-marked trails.

Plugging our noses against the sulphuric aromas, my favorite walk was out to the lava caves which were like gigantic waves frozen in time.

By the next morning, we were ready for a waterborne adventure in the northern Kohala Mountains. Our guide would take a group of us by kayak along a 3.5-mile stretch of water travelling through tunnels, over flumes and in open ditches. Known as Flum'in da Ditch, these 23-mile long waterways were originally built to irrigate the Kohala sugar cane fields.

Having donned our comfortable life vests, we were soon ensconced in our flotilla of kayaks. Minutes later, we slipped from the warm tropical sunlight into the cool of our first tunnel and remembered to duck and hold our paddles next to the kayak to avoid being 'clotheslined' at the entrance. Such a water journey is indeed an idyllic way to absorb the atmosphere of Hawaii's pristine forests and enjoy the melodic birdsong.

In the afternoon, we further explored this remote area by 4WD Hummer. Our native guide was an expert in local flora and fauna and as we splashed through swamps and across riverbeds, he regaled us with colorful tales of hunting wild pigs. Fortunately, our only four-footed encounter was with a herd of wild Longhorn cattle.

Having plunged into the adventure zone for our first couple of days, we decided to have a sedate pastoral day with a visit to the Parker Ranch & Museum at Waimea. More reminiscent of the green hills of Scotland than Hawaii, the 330 square miles of surrounding rangelands are fed by shrouds of cool misty rains carried by the Trade Winds. One of the elegant historical Parker homes boasts interesting paintings and objets d'art. It's a pity they don't serve Devon cream teas here but then, this is a Kona coffee island.

To round off our day, we teamed up with Isaac Haworth for a slow horse-drawn covered wagon trip through the rangelands. Perhaps it was the rhythmic clip clop of the horse's hooves or the heavy mists, but I could barely keep awake and finally, near the end of our trip, I learned how to 'hang loose'.

About the photos:
Top: Visitors view the desolate caldera at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.
Next: The verdant Parker Ranch rangelands are more reminiscent of the green hills of Scotland than Hawaii.
Next: Ranching Hawaiian-style.
Bottom: Isaac Hayworth stands beside his covered wagon.

For more stories by Caroline and Hamish Jackson visit Travel-wise Writers Page

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