Enlightened North
Story Cherie Thiessen
 
I follow flickering ice candles out to the ridge, where I find a tipi with a campfire flaming inside. I'm on the ridge of Blatchford Lake Lodge, here to see the Aurora Borealis, a shimmering spectacle that, according to Explore the Universe magazine, is supposed to be especially good viewing in winter 2000 and 2001.

Apparently, thanks to a scientific phenomenon called the solar maximum, roughly translated as more charged solar particles per inch than usual in the Earth¹s upper atmosphere, the Aurora Borealis is making a brighter-than-usual appearance this winter. Given that the last solar
maximum occurred in 1989, and the next won't be until 2011, I figured NOW was my last chance for a while to check out this souped-up night sky extravaganza.

And where better to do this than at the lodge that also claims to be the eco-friendliest inn in Canada's north? What's particularly great about checking out this winter's sparkly northern lights at Blachford, is that relatively speaking, you aren't hurting the earth to do so. With its siting, oriented for maximum possible solar gain, its hybrid battery system, its composting toilets, ultraviolet water purifier and gray water leaching pit, Blachford is primed to avoid polluting the pristine lake it overlooks. Add on a catch and release fishing policy and four stroke boat engines, and you have further testament to owner Mike Freeland's goal of combining wilderness adventure travel with minimal ecological impact.

As for the outdoor action, there's plenty on offer for the winter aficionado. There are groomed 4 and 20 kilometer trails for cross country skiing or snowshoeing, and endless frozen lakes and real wilderness bush travel for the more intrepid cross-country skiers. I also recommend dog
sledding in the frigid rosy twilight, listening to the handler sing out to her dogs in an echoing chant.

The handler, Barbara Cameron, is curator of education services at Yellowknife's spiffy Prince of Wales Northern Heritage Centre. She's also in charge of the school wilderness education programmes, teaching children about wilderness survival, dog mushing, tracking and the natural history of the area. For adults, there're special packages, including their back country skiing and aurora adventure, the cross-country equivalent of heli-skiing. For info on other programs, check out their website: www.internorth.com/blachford

If You Go:
Air Canada and Canadian Airlines fly direct to Yellowknife from Vancouver and Edmonton and flights from most major Canadian cities are also available..

Blachford Lake Lodge.
Box 1568, Yellow knife,
NT., X1A 2P2.
Phone 867-873-3303
E-mail: blachford@internorth.com
Web site: www.internorth.com/blachford